Beginner Plus-Size Man

topic posted Fri, September 29, 2006 - 6:19 PM by  Gleef
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I am very interested in learning to sew my own clothing. However, I am not only plus size, but I am male. Looking through the pattern catalogs, it's hard enough finding *any* men's patterns, and the plus size sections seem devoted exclusively to women's clothing.

Can anyone help me find a few basic men's patterns that cover my size to get started, like slacks and a shirt? I have a 54" waist, 30" inseam and 20" neck if that helps. Alternately, if there's a way a beginner like me might start that doesn't involve patterns, I'm curious to hear it.

I've heard of a mythical company called "Polar Bear's Sewing Patterns" which allegedly has everything I'm looking for. However, I cannot find any evidence they still exist, just online rumors and links to broken webpages. Does anyone know how to get in touch with them?
posted by:
Gleef
Albany
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  • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

    Fri, October 6, 2006 - 2:56 PM
    *Gleef sits back and listens to the crickets chirping*
    • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

      Sat, October 7, 2006 - 7:34 AM
      i have looked for the plus sized patterns you mentioned but i have not been able to find the polar bear patterns .... something you may be able to do... and i understand that you are a beginner but this is not a hard thing... find a pattern that you like... buy it in the largest size it comes in... and increase the pattern... this can be done by adding about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch for each size that you want to increase the pattern... i do this alot as you cannot find some of the things i like to wear in plus sizes... most of them stop between 14-18... the pattern companies are realizing that people come larger than that now but it didn't help 20 years ago when i first started sewing... this was a talent i had to gain if i wanted to wear nice clothes and not tents...
      • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

        Sun, October 8, 2006 - 7:13 AM
        That's a cool idea, thanks :-) (and thanks for hunting for Polar Bear, too)

        A question, though. I can figure out how to draw a straight line X distance away from another straight line, but many lines on a pattern are curved. What's the best way of drawing a curved line that adds the appropriate size?
        • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

          Sun, October 8, 2006 - 8:59 AM
          there are a few ways to do this... you can get one of those copier things where you trace with a stylus and there is an attached pencil to make the mark... don't know where you would find one of these

          i also found a thing that allows you to trace something and add a seam allowance to it... you may be able to find one as well... i think i got mine at jo ann's a few years back... its just a small copper disk with a hole in the center... you put your pen in the hole and run the edge of the disk along the line you want and it makes a line around it with a set seam allowance... you can do this to add each size to a pattern... i'd look in the quilting section because it seems that i got it for making quilt patterns from other objects...
          • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

            Sun, October 8, 2006 - 2:41 PM
            I use a clear plasitc ruler that has 1/8 " grid marked on it. I get them at an art supply store, not a sewing store. I make small marks, then smooth the line. You can buy what's called a french curve, if you want help drawing smooth curves. They're often available at art stores or online at specialty sewing stores. Always make the pattern in something cheap to begin with, because adding 1/4" per seam isn't entirely accurate when it come to matching sleeves and collars and such. I'd recommend getting yourself a good book on pattern alteration, if you're serious about this, even if it's for women, it'll tell you the basics. I got his book used on Amazon.com and it tells you the basics about pattern alteration that would apply to men as well as women. As long as you don't try to tailor right off the bat (tailoring uses lots of specific techniques that are more difficult for beginners) you should do fine. Take it one project at a time. Start with a simple shirt or elastic or drawstring pants and take your time. Good luck!

            www.taunton.com/store/pages/070395.asp
            • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

              Mon, October 9, 2006 - 6:34 AM
              > I use a clear plasitc ruler that has 1/8 " grid marked on it. I get them at an art supply
              > store, not a sewing store. I make small marks, then smooth the line. You can buy
              > what's called a french curve, if you want help drawing smooth curves

              I like that idea, thanks!
              It sounds like I'll need to figure out some way of setting up an ad-hoc drafting table somewhere, though. :-(


              > Start with a simple shirt or elastic or drawstring pants and take your time. Good luck!

              Why elastic/drawstring pants? Does a fly add lots of complexity? I'm asking because I'd rather be focusing on learning with stuff I generally *wear*, especially casual slacks. Part of the reason I want to get into this is I'm sick of paying $60/pair for the "cheap" pants in my size that only last a few months, or $30/pair to play mail order roulette with pants I can't try on. I don't need another pair of drawstring pants, I hardly ever touch the pair I have.
              • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

                Mon, October 9, 2006 - 9:03 AM
                zippers are a little more complicated... you need a zipper foot for your sewing machine... you also have to make a button or snap at the top.... for your first project something simple is the best so that you can get used to the pattern alteration thing... you don't want to go out and get nice expensive material and then have a glitch and mess it up on your first attempt... this will only generate frustration and anger ... if you feel like you can handle the zipper thing go for it... patterns usually come with a set of instructions that will show you what to do at that point... just be prepared to make a mistake or two when you first start out... we all do it and we learn that if you are trying something new... hit the $1 per yard table at walmart and make a "dummy" of the garment before you destroy $10 per yard material

                sewing.about.com/library/w...050999.htm

                this site has some tips on altering ... you may be able to find little extra tricks that might help

                patternsthatfityou.com/

                this site has some online classes for making your own patterns and altering patterns...

                www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00018.asp
                www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00136.asp

                this is just a good article


                hope all of this helps... when you get your first garment made, post pics
                • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

                  Wed, October 11, 2006 - 12:32 AM
                  > zippers are a little more complicated... you need a zipper foot for your sewing machine...

                  I'm OK with hand-sewing the fly until I get extra tools, or using a button fly for my early attempts.


                  > you don't want to go out and get nice expensive material and then have a glitch and
                  > mess it up on your first attempt

                  I figure the $2/yd cotton broadcloth that I think I remember seeing at JoAnn's should make decent pants to wear for times when I'm not worried about impressing people. If I remember correctly, that's cheaper than the knits that I usually see drawstring pants made from. Yes, I should avoid starting with dress slacks made from $15/yd wool :-)

                  > just be prepared to make a mistake or two when you first start out... we all do it and
                  > we learn that if you are trying something new...

                  Absolutely, thanks for the reminder :-)


                  > hit the $1 per yard table at walmart and make a "dummy" of the garment
                  > before you destroy $10 per yard material

                  The trouble there is, when I've poked at those materials, often it's fabric that seems to act completely differently than the stuff I intend to wear. I'm still a fabric novice, but I think that this would reduce the benefit of making the dummy piece. Unless something jumps out at me as being perfect from the bargain bin, I think it makes more sense for me to start with the lowest-end fabric I intend to use anyway. Yes?

                  And those look like excellent links, thank you.

                  Although the $10 online class kind of makes me nervious, since there's no indication that they've even thought of mens clothing on their site, and I figure that mens pants are probably shaped very differently than women's. The last thing I need is pants designed to handle hips ;-)
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.

                    Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

                    Wed, October 11, 2006 - 5:17 AM
                    it seems you are way ahead of me on the fabric thoughts... yes the $1.87 broadcloth will do well for your first attempts... you can put the fly in with the machine even without the zipper foot... it's just not as easy... and handsewing it may require several runs over it to get a good strength ... zippers are high tension areas... this is why so many need replacing... i would go with the button fly for a while then... especially if you have a good button holer on your machine... i have to do mine by hand and i hate button holes...lol...

                    knits are harder to work with and a lot of the things on the $1 table at walmart are knit... i have come up with some fantastic pin stripe from there though...in knit, cotton and rayon... i always check out the bargain bin first... i have made a lot of things from the bargain bin...

                    do remember to post pics of the things you make...
                    • Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

                      Mon, October 16, 2006 - 7:11 AM
                      I'd go for the zipper. Trouble with button flies is that the pattern pieces involved may be different and unless you have a pattern for a buttoon fly, you'll have to place your own buttonholes, etc. Unless you plan to wear button fly pants, I'd go for a zipper. If you're a generally patient, careful person and can follow written directions, you should be fine.

                      You can sometimes get stuff on the cheap that is of heavier weight. You're right, though, broadcloth would not be a good weight to start pants making. I terms of a class, as for sewing techniques, women's to men's insn't really different, but fitting is. Pants may be similar, though. The principals of dart manipulation are pretty much the same, it's just the shape you're trying to fit that's different.

                      Good luck! I pretty much taught myself the basics of sewing, then worked in fabric stores and costume shops with experts to hone my skills. The only actual sewing class I took was a graduate level tailoring class, though I did take some patterning classes.
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    Re: Beginner Plus-Size Man

    Fri, October 20, 2006 - 3:07 PM
    Hello!

    These are 2 options that opened up for me.
    1st)the sewing machine repair person had a shop with a consultant who taught out of his shop.
    2nd) a very exclusive (hard to find fabrics) in Royal Oak, Michigan --Haberman Fabrics- has their own classes and one of them is drop in/design your own class. I am going to take my troublesome projects there.

    So, I suggest that you see if you can network with:
    -sewing machine repair people-ask if there is someone who would be willing to teach/help/mentor you.
    -sewing circles sometimes called stitich and bitch (this might be just for knitters) my best friend had one at her house friday night before Renaissance Faire started. We all helped one another and suggested and pinned hems, etc.
    -check with Society for Creative Anacronism(SCA.org) most people in SCA sew there own clothes, includeing guys! I met a friend of a friend who sewed for me & her and. also. my best friend's husband also sewed but only for guys. (let me know if this is clear as mud and I will try to shine more light on this)
    -Fabric stores-perhaps the ones that carry the expensive fabric.
    -stores that sell sewing machines--if there is a difference in your area. There aren't anymore in my area.

    If I can think of more, I will let you know.

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